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2011年12月20日  

2011-12-20 11:28:18|  分类: 默认分类 |  标签: |举报 |字号 订阅

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from the broiled miso-glazed cod (It’s everywhere in Japan. If I didn’t have it at Izakaya, it would be like going to a diner and not being able to get a hamburger.) to the Kinki chicken wings. (Named woolrich jacket for Kinki prefecture, about an hour outside Tokyo. When I had them there, they were the best woolrich outlet freaking wings I’d ever eaten.) Those wings were so good that when Schulson was researching Izakaya, he went back to Japan to get the recipe, which he follows faithfully. The wings are rubbed with salt, sugar, and five-spice powder. After 24 hours, the mixture is rinsed off, and the wings are patted dry and slowly simmered in duck fat, turning them into confit. When ordered, they are deep-fried and lacquered with a sauce made with ketchup, rice vinegar, finger chilies, roasted garlic, cilantro, mint, and more than a dozen other ingredients. Schulson’s Kinkis will unkink your tastebuds"they are crispy, juicy, spicy, and the best freaking wings I’ve ever eaten as well. Izakaya’s sushi bar is elevated a few feet above the dining room. Three-pound Japanese geoducks, a species of giant saltwater clam, are treated to a ten-second sake poach, which loosens the membrane enclosing the clam’s 10-inch-long siphon. Then the sushi chefs remove the membrane and whittle down the siphons for sushi and sashimi. These clam strips are unlike any clam strips I’ve had in Jersey. The ivory flesh is firm at first contact, but then your teeth sink into a surprisingly yielding softness with a delicate flavor. I woolrich sale really want people to be able to taste a clear progression of Asian ingredients throughout the meal, Schul-son says. Take shiso, the mint-like Asian herb. It provides the green bits floating like lily pads in the signature gin martini; it is the edible leaf poised against the buttery sashimi of golden Thai snapper; minced, it is in the crust on a tender lamb chop served over soy-braised daikon; and it infuses a simple syrup that enlivens the seltzer splashed over seasonal sorbets. You’ll find hand-grated wasabi in the sauce on the gorgeous Australian Tajima Kobe sirloin; in a wicked banana split; and in a dark-chocolate fudge streaking a trio of green tea woolrich clothing ice cream sandwiches on dainty French-style chocolate macaroons. Not everything was so fine. Service was sweet and friendly one night; rushed and impersonal another. The char siu buns, served with the pork belly BLT, were hard and flat instead of light and fluffy. Hamachi is one of the most luscious of all sushi fish, but the overkill of brining, smoking, and pan-searing did it a disservice. Yet the good far outweighs the bad. Many pleasures lurk in the small-plates section: sweet Japanese eggplant, seared then tossed in red miso and mint; skewered king crab and woodsy sage-dusted chicken grilled at the robatayaki bar; and cloud-like yuzu souffl. The gumdrop-sized edamame dumplings, Schulson’s self-proclaimed signature dish, float in judiciously truffled sake broth like little green buoys. They’re creamy, ethereal, and available for sale on http://www.woolrich-clothing.com MichaelSchulson.com and, improbably, the Home Shopping Network. Tea at Izakaya may not be the classic Japanese ceremony
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